2017 (3) – Focus on the Little Things

“Climb into the mountains and get their good tidings.  Nature’s peace will flow into you
as sunshine flows into trees.  The winds will blow their own freshness into you,
and the storms their energy, while cares drop off like autumn leaves.”

— John Muir

Once I laid down, there was no way my legs would allow me to leave the tent.  I was too tired, and social time would have to wait.  I slept okay, but had to raise myself up on my knees three different times to go pee in the sturdy plastic latrine bag I brought.  In the dull light of morning, I unzipped my tent and checked the sky to see if the smoke had all blown away, but it was still dead gray to the east and fuzzy to the west.  Nuts.  This seriously compromised the three top attractions at the Bear Lakes: scenery, fresh air, and stargazing.  I briefly considered going back down the trail to join the masses headed north to watch the total eclipse.  Still, I remained convinced that the roads would be jammed, and had no desire to spend any part of my vacation sitting in traffic!  So, I’d need to find a way to have a good time right where I was; under any circumstances.  I decided to explore a wider range of territory than last year, since my knees felt surprisingly good.  Go small… it was a great opportunity to notice the little things: close-up details of all the vegetation, insects, and wee creatures.  If I couldn’t see the outer scenery, I could focus on the inner landscape.

First, I courteously ambled over and met my new neighbors.  They seemed like really nice folks, and their most endearing attribute was that they would be leaving tomorrow!  Most of them were from the Bay Area, and one guy actually worked in Novato.  They said they belonged to an Internet group on meetup.com called “Bay Area Boomer Backpackers.”  They get together online to go on trips to various lakes, mostly in the Trinity Alps.  With them leaving the next day, I had a good chance of being all alone to watch an eclipse of the sun from the Altar!  The smoke couldn’t block that out!  By 9:00 am – the scheduled time of the eclipse – I deduced that the sun would be well above the forested pyramid of Cheops and the pharaohs of Sphinx Rock.  I wondered: how many times have those noble kings have witnessed an eclipse over the millennia?

Before exploring, I had to fix my only water bottle.  Its cheap plastic tip had broken off on a rock, and the entire cap was useless.  I needed a cork… I searched around my campsite until I found a short plug from a branch that was exactly the diameter I needed.  I stuck it in the top of the bottle, and the water made it swell up until it sealed almost perfectly!  I had found the perfect stopper, just lying on the ground, courtesy of Mother Nature.  It’s amazing how one gets a thrill from the smallest successes in the wilderness.  Back home it takes a miracle achievement or sports championship to gain any attention, but here I was, feeling proud about a stick.

I checked the cave at Baggins End, and it was undisturbed since Dave, Jen, and I had left it over a year ago.  That supernatural rock formation is timeless, as if it has existed in its improbable state of interior decoration since prehistoric times.  The memory of it stays with me all year, and sometimes appears in my dreams.  I wondered if early prospectors might have used it for shelter, as this was gold country, too.  Then I rambled over yonder into the still, bowl-shaped forest of Lothlórien, and explored the steep upper slopes of the rim to try and discover things I hadn’t seen before.  The new vistas I came upon would have made for some spectacular photos, but the smoke obscured most of the background and sucked the depth out of the images.  I had to see the essence of it all with my mind’s eye, in a mental process similar to an Impressionist painter.  My new trekking poles were proving to be especially helpful on the slippery pine needles, and gave me access to many places my knees would not have been able to visit on their own.

By the time I wrote this in my notebook, I was lounging in the Elf Throne over at Bumblebee Springs.  I could hear the other group of people swimming and talking across the lake, and it spoiled the peak auditory experience of being at a silent mountain lake.  I munched on a cup of granola for my lunch, and tried to enjoy the micro-scenery that thrived amidst this magical seepage.  The seep from the great rock above nourished the life below, in an opulence of moss, ferns, and assorted plants.  Even if the mountains weren’t visible on the distant horizons, I could still take close-up pictures of what was right in front of me!  It was late for blossoms, but there remained many flowers at the springs.  I rose to stretch my legs and decided to ascend to the upper springs, but first I fluffed up the plants and ferns where I had been sitting to make it appear as if no one had been there.  With my poles, it was easy to navigate around the springs on just the rocks and logs, to avoid stepping on the fragile mosses.  The upper springs were larger, and offered more shade from the bulk of what I called “Keystone Rock” due to its distinctive shape.  Down at the base of its sheer face, a flash mob of ferns and blossoms had broken out.  I took more close-ups, and reveled in the delight of a universe that had the absurdity to create flowers.  God laughs in blooming things.  Everywhere I looked, the blossoms winked their colors and beckoned alluringly, and the bumbling bees obliged in devotional duty.  The ferns, grasses, and flowering plants were clustered in the cracks from which the snowmelt seeped, the way an old man’s whiskers invade his ears.  The marshmallow boulders all around me were toasting in the hot, smoky sunlight, but it was cool and delicious in the deep shade of the Elf Throne.  Even with the filtering effect of the haze it was still an exceedingly hot day.  Every smoke particle was a death trap for photons, and not all the light made it through.  But the heat penetrated, and the thick smoke held it down like a lid.  The walls around the lake appeared singed around the edges, and faded like an old sepia photograph, while Sawtooth was barely visible behind the top of Dis Butte.

I was out of water, but didn’t bring my water filter.  Giardia was increasingly a problem in the wilderness – due to the frequency with which it is visited by animals that produce a lot of shit, like bears and humans.  I tried to imagine the acrobatic positions a bruin would have to accomplish in order to defecate upstream from where I now sat at the base of a cliff.  It was time to head back to camp and make coffee, then do a little housekeeping and pump some more hydration.  Stepping out of the shade felt like walking into a smoke-filled bar with no air conditioning.  I found I was sweating by the time I traversed the two hundred yards of shoreline back to camp, and had to seek shade deep in the woods.  As I clackity-clacked another gallon of water, I calculated that I drank more than a gallon a day up here, while at home I got by with barely a quart or two.  But I peed hardly at all during the day, which was annoying because it all came out at night, when I was already in my sleeping bag.  There’s an adrenaline reaction to having one’s skin exposed to harsh conditions that triggers the body to conserve fluids.  Once protected in the comfort of a sleeping bag, the kidneys resume normal function.

In the afternoon, I ambled down to the Altar to get my first good pictures of that phenomenal embedded rock formation that I discovered last year.  The light would be just about right.  I knew I wouldn’t get any spectacular panoramic views with such poor visibility, but the energy of the place would be palpable all the same.  When I arrived, ensconced in studious sanctimony, I was appalled to find that someone – a pesky brat, an inconsiderate adult, or perhaps a team of chipmunks with heavy equipment – had knocked over the obelisk I had placed on the Altar the previous year.  Tragically, it broken in half, diminishing it integrity as a focal point of energy.  I placed it back in position and fit the two halves together so it still looked dramatic… but it would never be the same.  Kind of like my life, I lamented.  There had been several disappointments on the trip so far, but I had been learning all my life how to make the best of shortcomings, and was determined to have a good time anyway.

As the sun set behind the invisible ridge, it coated the Sanctuary with a tantalizing amber glaze.  The smoke was still appallingly thick and disgusting, but it made for some interesting lighting effects.  Thinking of which, I realized it was time to return to camp and seek the dubious charms of human companionship.  The seven so-called “Bay Area Boomer Backpackers” that hiked here were mostly older than I, but were very friendly.  The lean old man with a cyclist’s body could have been 70.  Another aged gunfighter figure was tall and laconic, silhouetted against the orange sun.  The short woman was chatty like a chipmunk, and her cacophonic narrative disturbed the rhythm of the mountains.  They were rather nice folks as it turned out; maybe a bit square but open-minded.  The observant guy with the cell phone had been all over the Alps, practically on the level with such legends as Wayne Moss.  The gunfighter boasted of hiking all over the Trinities, and Marble Mountains, too.  There were lively discussions about which Alpen body of water was the most beautiful, as he graciously passed around a flask of very good scotch.  There were friendly differences of opinion, but all could agree that Little Bear Lake was firmly in the top three.  Altogether there were three women and four men in their group, but only one couple in a double tent.  The rest were scattered around the front bluff like a singles’ bar of sleeping bags; some with no tent at all.  It was kind of cool to see that multi-platform bluff being used as I had always envisioned it: as a kind of open-air camping hostel where every guest had a perfect, semi-private flat spot and handy places to stash their gear.  The bluff overlooks the ever-changing surface of Little Bear Lake, with the Wall of a Thousand Faces rising majestically to its crown at the tip of Altamira.  Unfortunately for the Boomers, the full majesty of the fantastic rock formations was shrouded in the smoke of human carelessness.  I said a silent prayer that my tribe’s callous disregard for the wilderness would be mitigated somewhat, as good folks like this return home and spread the good tidings.  For the thousandth time, I wished that the natural world could be respected in our culture, the way the Native Americans understood their role in creation.

“Oh, Great Spirit, whose voice I hear in the wind, whose breath gives life to all the world.
Hear me; I need your strength and wisdom.
Let me walk in beauty, and make my eyes ever behold the red and purple sunset.
Make my hands respect the things you have made and my ears sharp to hear your voice.
Make me wise so that I may understand the things you have taught my people.
Help me to remain calm and strong in the face of all that comes towards me.
Let me learn the lessons you have hidden in every leaf and rock.
Help me seek pure thoughts and act with the intention of helping others.
Help me find compassion without empathy overwhelming me.
I seek strength, not to be greater than my brother, but to fight my greatest enemy: Myself.
Make me always ready to come to you with clean hands and straight eyes.
So when life fades, as the fading sunset, my spirit may come to you without shame.


— Unknown (Lakota)